Belt drive vs. direct drive: which turntable should you buy?

This article contains eBay affiliate links. If you buy through them, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

How belt drive works

A small motor sits away from the platter, often in a corner of the plinth. A thin rubber belt loops around the motor's pulley and around the platter (or a sub-platter underneath it). The motor spins, and the belt turns the platter.

The point of the belt is isolation. Any motor makes some vibration, and the stylus is sensitive enough to pick it up. A flexible belt soaks up much of it before it reaches the record. That's why belt drive is the norm on hi-fi decks like the Pro-Ject Debut Carbon EVO and Rega Planar range.

The trade-offs: belt drives have less torque, so they take a moment to come up to speed. On some decks you change speed by moving the belt by hand to a different step on the pulley, while others switch electronically. And belts wear. Rubber can stretch, crack or turn sticky with age, which shows up as slow or wavering speed. The fix is a replacement belt, and it's usually a simple job.

How direct drive works

On a direct-drive turntable the platter sits directly on the motor. No belt, no pulley. The motor is designed to turn slowly and precisely at 33⅓ or 45 RPM, with electronics keeping the speed steady.

The benefit is torque and control. A direct-drive deck gets up to speed fast and holds it when you nudge, hold or push the record. Add a pitch slider and a speed-locking system, like the quartz lock on the Technics SL-1200MK2 (introduced in 1979), and you have the recipe for a DJ turntable. There's also no belt to wear out.

Direct drive isn't only for DJs. Audio-Technica's AT-LP120X-USB, for example, is a direct-drive deck aimed at home listening, with a built-in switchable preamp and USB output.

The third option: idler wheel

Before belt and direct drive dominated, many turntables used an idler wheel: a rubber-rimmed wheel pressed between the motor pulley and the inside edge of the platter. Classic examples include the Garrard 301 (on sale from 1954) and 401, and the Lenco L75, whose idler runs along a tapered motor shaft for continuously variable speed.

Idler decks have a devoted following. On eBay they're vintage buys, and the idler wheel's condition matters, because old rubber can cause rumble or speed problems. See our vintage guide.

Side by side

Which should you buy?

• You want to DJ: direct drive, no question. Start with the DJ guide.
• You want great sound at home: either works. Most hi-fi decks are belt drive, so you'll have more choice there. See the hi-fi guide.
• You want the least maintenance: a modern deck of either type. On belt drives, a belt is a cheap consumable.
• You love old gear: all three, but budget for a belt, an idler service or motor checks, depending on type.

What to check on eBay, by drive type

Belt drive

Ask if the belt is original. Ask for a video at both speeds. Slow, drifting or wavering speed usually points to the belt.

Direct drive

Ask for a video showing start-up, the pitch control across its range, and (if it has one) the strobe at zero pitch. Motor or speed-control faults on old direct-drive decks are harder to fix than a belt.

Idler wheel

Ask whether the idler has been serviced or replaced, and listen for rumble in the video.

Sources

1. Technics: SL-1200 heritage
2. Audio-Technica: AT-LP120X-USB
3. Wikipedia: Garrard Engineering and Manufacturing Company
4. Audio magazine (July 1972): Lenco L75
5. The Sound of Vinyl: turntable belts